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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. However, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” states a proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest place securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.