The fashion icon Edward Enninful reflects on Today's Society: 'A Decline in Tolerance' Than in the 90s.

An unexpected discovery during a tube journey in 1988 altered the course of a young Ghanaian immigrant to Britain. Scouted as a model, Edward Enninful was rapidly ushered into the capital's vibrant 1990s creative scene, evolving from model to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the fashion director of the iconic i-D.

"It was the height of the Young British Artists – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I understood we’d be close. We all socialised across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I miss that rawness."

While Enninful may seem nostalgic, he is not the only one. In recent times, a fond idealisation of the 1990s has grown intense. Yet in the intervening decades, Enninful believes a noticeable regression. "I feel, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he remarks. "It’s not even this country – it’s a global phenomenon."

A Perceived Regression

This regression is difficult to overlook: the rise of populist movements, the pushback against progressive values, and the reassertion of narrow beauty standards. In place of the hope of the previous decade, currently a more divisive political personality stands as a possible leader. Even, the Union Jack, once an badge of Cool Britannia, has returned as a polarising symbol.

According to Enninful, the solution has always been to celebrate culture in all its variety. This was the guiding principle behind his landmark issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, including a broad spectrum of prominent faces from music.

"People with a voice should wield it," he comments, explaining those publishing choices. "Everyone talks about immigration; I would not be in this position if Britain was not a welcoming country, if it refused my family a refuge and an education. That’s the Britain I believed in. I hope this moment will pass."

Hope in the Next Generation

He draws solace in the youth of today: "They are far more conscious than we were. They analyse systemic issues – I didn't even know what that was."

The beginnings of his career would forge a groundbreaking career built on fearlessness and inclusivity. Enninful made history as the first man, first Black editor, first openly gay person, and first disabled Black gay man to assume the editorship at British Vogue. His tenure featured landmark covers showcasing people of diverse backgrounds, curvy models, older individuals, and individuals from varied communities. Critically, sales increased.

"To overlook huge sections of the population, it’s not just that you’re excluding people – it’s a poor strategy," he explains.

Launching a Creative Venture

He has established his agency EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his key endeavour since departing his former post. He states his aim to continue being a "change-maker".

"I constantly interrogate the status quo. I was raised in a place where the majority was Black – the doctors, the attorneys, the president. Then we arrived in England, without funds, and I was a minority. I was incredibly timid. My teachers declared I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were harassed under the suspicion laws … those experiences gave me a dual identity both an insider and outsider."

Contrary to the popular image of industry figures as loud and temperamental, Enninful is calm and projects peace. His journey has not been immune to hardship, including publicly shared battles with mental health and addiction.

He has also endured significant health challenges, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, now leaving him with limited vision. "I endured such a time of fear for two years, not working, fearing I was going to lose my sight. It’s comparable to PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I vowed, if this ever ends, I’m just going to do everything that I was so fearful to do. I’m not going to limit myself to just being an editor or a fashion person."

The Tate Britain Exhibition

This drive to be typecast has led him outside the world that built his career. He is now curating a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, showcasing work by a host of influential artists and photographers from the era. The show, he notes, aims to evoke the decade's interdisciplinary energy – and highlight those who did not receive adequate attention at the time.

"Galleries often failed to shine a light on the most relevant talents because they did not have the expected background," he comments.

This project itself uses a unique approach, forgoing traditional advertising in favour of partnership-based projects. "We ask, what can we create collaboratively? Is it an event, a series? The magazine is one component of a larger creative platform."

Looking Forward Without Fear

Today, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most influential cultural influencers. His story, he believes, is a proof to the power of following your instincts.

How would the younger Edward think of the Edward of today? He chuckles. "It would be a surprise, but he’d be pleased. In those days I was anti-establishment. I would not have believed institutions like Tate were necessarily for me."

He pauses. "Gratitude is key. We were displaced, we left our homeland. I came close to losing my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have underestimated me my whole career. But I am unstoppable once I’ve made up my mind to do something."